Seeing how the three-week-old Cibo Restaurant + Bar is a spin-off of that now-defunct but once highly respected "iceberg lettuce and red sauce" palace called DaVinci's, I expected more of the same from the new place. Wrong!

No, Cibo is far more ambitious and sophisticated. And the food was epiphanically accomplished--in the same league as, say, Sage or even Rigsby's! Plus the very fine wine list eclipsed cliche.

Too bad the service was stunningly clueless. In other words, I had to order everything twice--and things still went awry. It got so comical I finally resorted to asking my amnesiac waiter if he was high.

Still, with food like I got, I'll definitely be back--I suppose any server has a reservoir of bumbling nights inside of him/her (if so, that guy should be good for a few more years!) Here's a taste:

Lovely homemade tortelloni with a sweetly restrained butternut squash filling and a classic brown butter sauce picked up by crisply fried bits of herbs

A chicken dish worth ordering on a big night out--in fact it was fantastic

A panna cotta with expertly calibrated flavors of cinnamon, coffee, chocolate and caramel--yeah, that sounds busy, but it was marvelous

Hopefully this highly promising place can get its service game together. Expect a full review soon.