Chengdu Soft Bean Curd--big blocks of silken tofu thrown into relief by toasted dry soy beans, all of it swamped in a perfumey broth awash in chili oil

Lamb with Hot Pepper and Cumin--really tender meat explosively seasoned

Diced Chicken with Pickled Chili--more sweet than pickly, and spicy from red pepper flakes

Fortune, an old go-to dim sum and Chinese takeout spot for me until its green health-code sticker turned non-green, is under new ownership (and currently bears a green sticker). The changeover has cuisine consequences as Fortune's former Cantonese bent has been replaced with a strongly Szechuan one.

I tried it out yesterday and found my dishes to be aggressive, salty and oily. Since that also describes me, we got along great. I look forward to sampling more of its flagrantly spicy fare-- stay tuned.

Fortune Chinese Restaurant 2869 Olentangy River Road (614) 263-1991 ‎