A bowl by any other name

  • Will Shilling photo
From the 01/21/2009 edition

What: Details' Spanish Chorizo Chili ($4.50)

Why: The flavor's in the Details

I couldn't care less if the recently opened Rosendales spin-off known as Details misses a bit in its chili description. That's because it hits bull's-eye targets in the taste and texture departments.

So while the menu says the chili's made with Spanish chorizo and black beans, my high-backed, scooped-out white bowls at this style-heavy joint have been filled with something closer to Mexican chorizo and more chickpeas than black beans (along with plenty of red beans, too).

These al dente beans benefit from a beery bright and mildly spicy tomato base, plus protruding wheels of thin fried plantain chips for sweetness and crunch and a smear of "avocado butter" for a cooling richness. The result is a bold, colorful and chunky chili that's straightforward yet inspired, hearty yet refined.