Any talk of top restaurants in Columbus must include the once groundbreaking and still fresh Rigsby's Kitchen. Its sophisticated and graceful mood is set with a pretty wood-planked floor, bold and large-scale original artworks and wine-inflected food with such convincingly Italian character that you might think you're dining in Tuscany - the real one, not the cartoony one so often claimed by risibly un-Tuscan chains.

Any talk of top restaurants in Columbus must include the once groundbreaking and still fresh Rigsby's Kitchen. Its sophisticated and graceful mood is set with a pretty wood-planked floor, bold and large-scale original artworks and wine-inflected food with such convincingly Italian character that you might think you're dining in Tuscany - the real one, not the cartoony one so often claimed by risibly un-Tuscan chains.

Their Daily Bread: There is no better bread in town than what emanates from Rigsby's own little bakery. So spread their sweet butter to your heart's content on the lovely, dark-crusted sourdough and its stiffer and heartier raisin-and-walnut brother. Both are marvelous.

Start me up: Soups always excel here and a recent thick brisket, cannellini bean and winey variety did as well. My table was also highly impressed by a mammoth Roasted Beet with Skorthalia and "O" Zinfandel Vinegar appetizer. Hulking cubes of expertly roasted beets had an earthy sweetness reined in by tangy vinegar, received contrasts from slivered toasted almonds and had a rich dab of potent skorthalia (Greek potato and garlic dip) in lieu of overused goat cheese. Drizzled with good olive oil, it was big enough for two or three eaters.

The Main Things: Note: Lunchtime portions here can be quite large (try not to look so greedy, OK?). Chicken Livers alla Diavola tamed an exterior circle of minerally meat with a spicy and dark robust red-wine-spiked tomato sauce. Centering the action was a spectacular and huge spool of creamy, crusted and nutmegged "angel hair custard."

The intense Mushroom Risotto with Roasted Chicken and Marsala was a thing of true beauty. Its tender and sweet pulled meat blended perfectly with the other high-quality ingredients in a flawless risotto with shiitake and cremini brightened by sharp cheese and, yes, wine. Very highly recommended. As is a hot and cool muscular treatment of mussels. There, the often puny shellfish were transformed into a substantial munch with the brilliant additions of beans, chewy farro, wine, chili flakes and mint.

The Sweet Hereafter: Complex yet balanced, Rigsby's Warm Apple, Pear and Blackberry crostada was a real plate-licker of a finisher. A sprinkling of fleur de sel provided crunchy contrast and intensified: cubes of bright fruit; a thick and buttery pastry; pockets of Ohio goat cheese; Jeni's fabulous Honey Vanilla ice cream; and a plate-garnishing lattice of lavender and blackberry sauce. Whoa.