Austere but familiar, polished yet easygoing, Lindey's has been around long enough to qualify as a Columbus classic. In fact, with its giant potted plants, "power bar," pressed-tin ceiling, unvarnished wooden floor and upscale bistro feel, this grande dame is still the barometer for local mover-and-shaker sophistication - and it has a huge, all-over-the-map lunchtime menu to match.

Austere but familiar, polished yet easygoing, Lindey's has been around long enough to qualify as a Columbus classic. In fact, with its giant potted plants, "power bar," pressed-tin ceiling, unvarnished wooden floor and upscale bistro feel, this grande dame is still the barometer for local mover-and-shaker sophistication - and it has a huge, all-over-the-map lunchtime menu to match.

Their Daily Bread: Soft, sweet and salted butter accompanies an A-1 loaf of crusty yet tender sourdough, plus a bonus round of crackly, cheesy and herby flatbread.

Start Me Up: Of course there's a super-rich Lobster Bisque and a self-proclaimed "Overglazed" French Onion soup, but I like the suitable-for-sharing and once-pioneering Chopped Salad. It's like two appetizers in one, as a whole serving of wispy onion rings tops a lively mixture of applewood smoked bacon, chopped eggs, cucumbers, tomatoes and a bit of surprisingly well-integrated broccoli and cauliflower, all tossed in a lovely lemony vinaigrette.

The Main Thing: A simple but excellent Mahi-Mahi special gave a handsome slab of rich and dark fish the gentle foil of a luminous basil-oil drizzle; it came with a chunky and sturdy semi-sweet celery root and parsnip puree plus a side of firm and buttery sugar snap peas.

Lindey's classic Tournedo of Beef is the perfect storm of a bigger-than-you'd-think four-ounce hunk of beautifully seared meat. Naturally, that lily must be gilded with a lemony bearnaise sauce and showcased next to stout and marvelous garlic mashed potatoes.

The Sweet Hereafter: The aptly named Lindey's Post Mortem applies a grown-up treatment to a kiddie klassic. It's a gooey, warm, nut-studded brownie swamped in a dark, fudgy, Kahlua-spiked chocolate sauce topped with a huge scoop of locally made Johnson's coffee ice cream. Yes, you read that correctly, drool-head.