This stately mainstay and vintage country inn is jeans-casual at midday, even though ladies-who-lunch of a certain age may be more dressed up. With its historically themed folksy paintings, crafty woodwork and jazzy music, the Inn is a perfect setting for classic techniques finessed onto contemporary American cuisine.

This stately mainstay and vintage country inn is jeans-casual at midday, even though ladies-who-lunch of a certain age may be more dressed up. With its historically themed folksy paintings, crafty woodwork and jazzy music, the Inn is a perfect setting for classic techniques finessed onto contemporary American cuisine.

Their Daily Bread: A salted and garlic-touched soft and warm sourdough is served with a pleasantly surprising peach-colored aioli that's thick and eggy and entertainingly works more like a dip than a spread.

Start Me Up: You can't go wrong with made-from-scratch soups like a Butternut Squash with toasted pumpkin seeds and apple slaw. For something crunchier, though, try the pretty Red-Oak Salad. It presents tender leaves with ground nuts accented with dabs of a creamy and tart Ohio goat cheese, incredible candied pecans I could munch on all day long, and perfect slices of pristine green apples that rhyme with the apple balsamic vinaigrette.

The Main Thing: If lunchtime portions are a tad smaller here, that's OK because they tend to be richer, too. Like the thick and juicy, first-class Petit Filet Worthington - a great little steak. It's attractively crusted on top and dotted with blue cheese; underneath its flavors are increased by a deep demi-glace; to its sides lie wonderfully wilted spinach and a wedge of insanely good potato gratin with multiple layers of delicately sliced potatoes held together by an intense cheese sauce.

Also great is (really) Grilled Salmon with nutty, highly underused and still somewhat exotic Himalayan red rice, real and buttery haricots verts, and a smooth mustard cream sauce tying it all together.

The Sweet Hereafter: The often-tropically flavored made-here fruit sorbets are outstanding and make for sublime last bites. For something richer, though, go for the Warm Apple and Bourbon Crepes with a pudding-like butterscotch cream, caramel sauce and Mexican doughnut-like cinnamon-hit crispy churro strips.