I bow down before the fearless innovator (or wasted, spit-faced chowhound) who, in 1985, decided to combine grilled roast beef and Swiss cheese with the Mohawk's superlative chicken salad.

What and how much: Mother Mohawk, $8.50

Where: The Old Mohawk -a prototypically funky German Village haunt with genuine neighborhoody charm

Why: This easy-to-love sandwich is warm and comforting like your mother's hugs - but it leaves you with only about half the guilt

Eat it: I bow down before the fearless innovator (or wasted, spit-faced chowhound) who, in 1985, decided to combine grilled roast beef and Swiss cheese with the Mohawk's superlative chicken salad.

That tantalizing poultry melange is supremely meaty, dotted with crunchy celery, sports a whiff of dill and has only enough mayo to just hold it together. But synergistic magic happens when it's layered with thickish slices of good, juicy, deli-style roast beef and it all gets embraced by warm, toasty marbled rye.

Sidekicks: It comes with a caraway horsey sauce that supplies a spicy kick for the meaty richness, and you also get chips; but for a definitely-worth-it $1 upcharge, opt for the terrific made-here kettle chips.