Like most winners on this list, it starts with bread you want to keep biting into. For the Piasan, it's the buttery crunch of a properly made (i.e. smashed, toasted) panini sandwich.

What and how much: The Piasan ($8)

Where: Gallo's, a family-run place that's also the coolest and least-cliche sports bar in Columbus, with homemade food to match

Why: This inspired bit of Little Italy might be spelled wrong (it's "paisan") but madonn! is it made right

Eat it: Like most winners on this list, it starts with bread you want to keep biting into. For the Piasan, it's the buttery crunch of a properly made (i.e. smashed, toasted) panini sandwich.

Between the long, crisp bread slices are high-grade ingredients like salty, spicy and alluringly gamey Italian deli meats (genoa salami, capicola and sopressata) plus sharp, aged provolone.

Condiment-wise, you get a two-fer with a roasted red pepper relish and the good housemade balsamic vinaigrette. These bright, sweet-side sauces are lively foils for the meats and cheese.

Sidekicks: Comes with fries or slaw, but ask for a half-and-half, which is a best-of-both-worlds serving of the crisp, meaty and ungreasy 'taters plus the place's distinct, appley and oniony fresh cole slaw - both still arrive in wildly generous portions.