I'd like to meet this Leroy guy, because the dude really knows how to tease out a theme. Between a smoking jacket of good rye bread that gets ungreasily grilled is a smoldering trio of creamy smoked cheddar cheese, mild smoked ham and peppery pastrami.

What and how much: Leroy's Smokin' Sandwich ($7)

Where: Brown Bag Deli, a high-performing German Village deli that teams up relatively low prices with a relaxed, real-deal vibe

Why: Go up, up, up in smoke

Eat it: I'd like to meet this Leroy guy, because the dude really knows how to tease out a theme. Between a smoking jacket of good rye bread that gets ungreasily grilled is a smoldering trio of creamy smoked cheddar cheese, mild smoked ham and peppery pastrami.

Classically accenting that hot troika is the reuben-proven, sweet-and-sour, yin and yang of sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. The reubenesque results are meaty, pickly, juicy and salty, plus, of course, smoky.

Sidekicks: It only comes with a pickle, but for a small fee, do what Leroy would do and smoke another one by ordering the excellent Smoky Redskin Potato Salad with bacon, smoked cheddar, mayo, celery and big chunks of spuds.