A la Carte: Sarefino's Pizzeria

By Columbus Alive
From the A la Carte: Sarefino's Pizzeria edition

If you like pizza - and of course you do, you're human - then the top-shelf Sarefino's stall in the North Market will give it to you any way you like it.

In other words, for $10, DIYers can purchase a tomato-pie-making kit that comes with a choice of topping (additional toppings cost $1.50), enough cheese and sauce for a 16-inch pizza, plus a dough ball to be tossed "like the pros" in the privacy of your own kitchen.

Less ambitious types can buy one of Sarefino's take-and-bake models instead. What that entails is that for $1 off the regular price (meaning about $12-$14), a pie will be fully assembled to order, and then you need only give it 10 minutes baking time in a preheated home oven when you're ready to eat it.

More conventionally minded pizza hounds can just order from Sarefino's menu, which includes all of the delicious usual toppings (and some other interesting items, like eggplant and pancetta) plus a few well-designed specialty versions ($15-$16 for a large), like the Meathead with pepperoni, pancetta and sausage; and the Pesto Chicken with homemade pesto, chicken, kalamata olives and sun-dried tomatoes.

Then again, people like me who need it now can always snap up one of the quartet of styles Sarefino's has sitting out a la NYC slice palaces. These only await a very rapid reheat to be ready to eat immediately.

Whatever your preference, you're going to get a damn good pizza made with a thin, golden-brown puffy crust that's perfectly crisp and layered with high-quality toppings. I recently ate my way through four slices (which were big, properly cut into wedges, had a roasty toasty crust and cost a reasonable $2.50 to $3) and came away happy and with these notes.

• Cheese - This showcases the place's right-on thin crust, good cheese and usage of garlic to spark things up.

• Vegetarian - The least greasy and probably my favorite. Spinach, artichoke hearts and roasted red peppers taste great together here and make for a snack/meal you'll likely crave again in a day or two.

• Pepperoni - Salty, smoky, spicy thin red discs get spread, uh, "edge to edge," pooling up irresistible pig oil and making for a greasy, crowd-pleasing old-time favorite.

• Sausage and pepperoni - Plump, dense pillows of fennel-seeded pork sausage make a classic combo with the racy pepperoni.