Here's generally how things work at Wing's, one of the East Main Street restaurants that have helped Bexley maintain its classy, classic status.

Here's generally how things work at Wing's, one of the East Main Street restaurants that have helped Bexley maintain its classy, classic status.

You'll be greeted warmly, led to a booth and handed several large menus. The first will be for food, a sturdy collection of familiar Chinese dishes. Standard fare like lo mein and Sichuan vegetables is accentuated by a good number of house specialties, ranging between $10 and $20.

The second tome is specifically for drinks. Beer takes up a page, so do wine and after-dinner cognacs. Also on the list are bourbons, Irish whiskies and a few ryes.

But a quick run-through soon uncovers the main event: single-malt Scotch.

Wing's is home to the city's best selection of this magical stuff - page after page of top-shelf distillations from another world and, often, another age.

Most novice drinkers will be completely lost, but don't worry. This is a good kind of lost, like being stuck in a chocolate factory or a genie's cave of wonders. You're not in a big hurry to find your way out.

The menu is organized by major Scotch-producing regions - Highlands, Lowlands, Speyside, Islay, Orkney and several islands. A good number of pours cost less than $10, and each grouping has selections at various price points. The range starts at $5 for an eight-year Glen Kirk and climbs to $130 for a special reserve from The Glenlivet.

You can certainly enjoy Wing's without whiskey. The decor is pleasant enough, especially in a smaller bar-side dining area, and the food is a cut above most Chinese in Columbus.

There's just no point in a visit without sampling the rich, exuberant warmth of a thousand Scottish casks. It's like saying, "Yeah, Cedar Point's cool - I'm just not really into rides."

Do yourself a favor. Have a seat. Get a Scotch.

Scotch Sampling

You might get a bit lost in Wing's extensive list of single-malt Scotch. Here are some selections under $10.

Type: Caol Ila 12

Region: Islay

What it's like: The aroma's a bit astringent at first, but a comforting smokiness soon comes out. The finish is smooth and peaty.

Type: Ledaig 15

Region: Southern Highlands

What it's like: The best Scotch I tried. Its rich golden body smells like an autumn hearth, and the finish is just slightly sweet, something that bourbon drinkers (like me) will appreciate.

Type: Isle of Jura 10

Region: Jura

What it's like: The nose is rather intense, though a round, buttery texture makes this one a fantastic sipping Scotch.