Brunch season: Anna's

From the Brunch season: Anna's edition

Atmosphere: Anna's modest Dublin strip-mall digs are enlivened by a smile-inducing, large-scale model of a thatched-roof Greek windmill. Encompassing that conversation piece is the requisite Grecian whitewash accented with bright splashes of Aegean Sea blue paint.

Food: An epic Greek chorus of Hellenic-style favorites comprises Anna's outstanding Sunday brunch. Call it the buffet that launched a thousand plates. I recommend you work your way slowly through the lineup.

Anna's lead-off hitters are all strong, like: a thick, cuminy hummus; creamy avgolemono soup; buttery spanikopita; and big fresh salads such as the lettuce-free horiatiki.

But man, the heart of the order is like murderer's row, there's: slabs of soulful roasted lamb drenched in roasting juices; salty gyro meat with tzatziki; crunchily fried cod and calamari; comforting, pre-sliced casserole stacks of moussaka; and lemony, silky, leek-sauced Chicken Corfu.

Sweet stuff: Anna's off-to-the-side dessert table awaits stuffed brunchers like a Trojan horse - so plan ahead and be prepared for the sweet ambush. Try the moist, excellent lemon and walnut cakes, that grand old standby baklava and refreshing and palate-cleansing tart Greek yogurt that's even better when adorned with honey and nuts.

Don't miss: Unfortunately there's no ouzo served on Sundays (dang it), but you can't go wrong pairing hot Greek food with ice-cold Greek beer and occasionally letting loose with a warmly delivered "Opa!"