Brunch season: Lindey's

  • Jodi Miller photo
From the 04/01/2010 edition

Atmosphere: Lindey's is the grand old dame of Columbus fine dining. Pretty and sophisticated, its French-bistro-esque main room features an airy high ceiling, an opulent copper bar, huge windows onto German Village and lots of arty appointments.

The patio here is justifiably famous and one of the sharpest in town. Its brick and black motif is fleshed out with a gazebo-like bar, a glazed three-tiered fountain, handsome plants and shady trees. The result is a casually elegant and breezily fabulous food- and drink-fueled playground.

Food: Lindey's brunch dishes lean toward the rich and eggy side and usually arrive gilded with a nice hollandaise sauce. They're all good, but the Crab Cake and Eggs is a home run. In fact, it's one of my all-time favorite brunch items.

A cute, well-used, personal-sized skillet comes piled high with spinach and crusty fingerling potatoes for texture and heft. Then comes the all-star in the lineup - a smallish but marvelous Maryland-style crab cake that's probably 95 percent pure and sweet crabmeat. Cresting that is a fried egg dolloped with hollandaise. The crazy-great combination is a rich celebration of farm and ocean and an out-of-this-world party in the mouth.

Sweet stuff: Check out Lindey's over-the-top stuffed French Toast. Brioche bread gets adorned with bananas, pecans and cream cheese - and, oh yeah, sided with bacon for a salty little counterpoint.

Don't miss: Nary a natty bruncher here is without a horseradishy Bloody Mary or a pale golden mimosa (made with a generous splash of Cava) - you should follow suit.