Moussaka, $13

The Olive Tree in Hilliard might initially seem like your basic old Greek/Middle Eastern eatery, but it offers some idiosyncrasies that set it apart from the pack. Like Israeli wine and, especially, their moussaka. Instead of being stacked similar to a dryish lasagna-style casserole, it's a much looser and juicier construction.

Served in an enormous bowl are roasted potatoes, eggplant and zucchini interspersed with a delicate and cinnamony ground meat melange. All of that homey heartiness gets submerged in a double shot of excellent sauces - a rich and tangy tomato slurry making a target with a lush and nutmeg-y bechamel. Bull's-eye!