We all saw the commercial throughout football season: A young woman gets in the backseat of a cab and tears open a bag of cheeseburger-flavored Doritos. Suddenly the world around her shifts from sluggish Saturday afternoon to saucy Saturday night. She herself transforms from frumpy to fabulous just in time to stomp her heels straight into a raging nightclub.

We all saw the commercial throughout football season: A young woman gets in the backseat of a cab and tears open a bag of cheeseburger-flavored Doritos. Suddenly the world around her shifts from sluggish Saturday afternoon to saucy Saturday night. She herself transforms from frumpy to fabulous just in time to stomp her heels straight into a raging nightclub.

I had to try these newfangled Doritos to see if they would make my life more glamorous. I thought about munching while driving my Civic to see if it would morph into a Ferrari (or at least remove the dent from my passenger side door), but I settled for passing the bag among friends while watching the NCAA football championship game.

What I tried: Doritos Late Night All Nighter Cheeseburger ($4)

Did it taste like a cheeseburger? Yes. The consensus was that Doritos did a remarkable job of recreating the fast-food cheeseburger's flavor. The taste of pickle was strong and overpowering, matched only by a fierce mustard tang. McDonald's, Burger King and Hamburger Helper were all cited, though the most common reference was White Castle.

Was that a good thing? No. These Doritos taste like burgers, but they taste like cheap burgers. One friend remarked that chomping on these chips reminded her taste buds of sinking her teeth into a frozen patty. That's gross.

Would I eat it again? Not likely. Any flavor of Doritos makes for fine drunk food, so in that sense this product achieves its late-night ambitions by default. But if I'm craving a cheeseburger after hours, these Doritos are a sorry substitute. And they didn't even transform my football party into a suave cocktail hour!