With a menu literally all over the Latino map -- Mexico, Puerto Rico, Colombia, Guatemala and the
Dominican Republic are alluringly represented - Famosa would likely be a fun place to catch some
World Cup action. But kicking soccer aside, you should go to Famosa just because the food there is
fantastic.
Famosa's a big and airy Hilliard-area place with a full bar and minimal, if nice enough,
decorations. Yeah, it's on the bare-bones side, but at least it's neither a cliche nor a
trying-too-hard, pseudo-Mexican joint. Belying this relaxed stance is Famosa's well-executed,
multi-paged menu, which skillfully navigates around the Caribbean.
Oh sure, you can get your burrito and fajita fixes here too, but you can get those anywhere.
That's why I focused on Famosa's less commonplace dishes, which were frequently terrific, even
exciting.
Like the outstanding - if imposingly mammoth - appetizer combo called El Caribeno/Picadera
Mix ($15). That titanic platter has officially shot to the top of my current list of new favorites.
It's an expertly deep-fried dream of Dominican cheese planks (stout, creamy and salty);
tostones (thick and crispy plantain chips); bite-sized longaniza links (like chorizo with more
oregano); clumps of pork belly (wow!); rockin' chicken and more. Also supplied but unfried were
delicious slices of seared and smoky Dominican salami, plus a nice little salad with an olive-oil
vinaigrette.
For a more restrained - but equally wonderful - starter, go with the beautiful Pupusas ($2
each). You'll get pouch-shaped, griddled corn cakes filled with meat and/or that great Dominican
cheese (pupusas are like the cornier, thicker and denser Dominican answer to quesadillas).
If you've never had mofongo before (mofongo is like the heartier Puerto Rican answer to our
holiday stuffing), this is definitely the place to get it.
Famosa's killer Mofongo de Carne ($10) was an addictive - and mountainous - serving of fried
and rough-chopped plantains acting as the canvas for a panoply of bright, potent and harmonious
flavors (garlic, oregano, tomatoes, onions and peppers plus diced, stewy and savory beef). For
contrast, that entree was served with a fresh and effective slaw enlivened by its olive-oil-based
dressing.
Sticking in the same general region of origin, the Tilapia Tropical ($10) was an unusual and
winning fish preparation. Here, the humble tilapia was adorned with a glossy, garlicky, long-cooked
fruity sauce made with peppers, coconut milk and mangoes and tasting more savory than sweet. Like
many main courses at Famosa, it came with two picks from a long and interesting list of semi-exotic
starchy side dishes.
Though it arrived with nice, lightly fried white rice and fresh avocado slices, I didn't need
any sides with my marvelous, whole-meal-in-a-bowl order of Sancocho ($10). That rustic bucketload
of silky, thick-brothed soup was a dynamite marriage of pork, chicken, beef, plantains and yucca.
The only downside with such entrees was that they were too massive to afford eating dessert.
So when you go to Famosa - and you really should - expect to see me there too. I'll likely be
plowing through a finishing sweet (maybe the Guatemalan Torta Imperial?), and screaming
goooooaaalllll!
