The Gahanna Grill is a true local institution. It's a brightly lit, family-friendly, inexpensive restaurant/saloon where the entire community seems to gather to leisurely chow down on all-American comfort food served with a side of country music.

The two-on-one

Double Beanie Burger, $10.75

The Gahanna Grill is a true local institution. It's a brightly lit, family-friendly, inexpensive restaurant/saloon where the entire community seems to gather to leisurely chow down on all-American comfort food served with a side of country music.

The Attraction: Twice as nice

To step into the Gahanna Grill is to become steeped in the lore of the "World Famous" Beanie Burger. You cannot escape it (and wouldn't want to), as its photo is prominently displayed in the center of every single table.

Named for its shameless creator, the Beanie Burger is great as-is, but it takes on mythical proportions - literally - when it becomes a Double Beanie Burger. That would be one full pound of honest and juicy, seared ground beef layered with the popular house cole slaw (sweet, finely minced and all cabbage) plus tons of long-sauteed onions, bacon (gotta have that), a veritable preponderance of American cheese and the usual gardeny stuff. As for the doesn't-stand-a-chance bun, it's mostly there to give you something to grab onto.

Double-wide-mouthed masticators able to finish this mandible challenger get their pictures immortalized on the "Wall of Fame." If you look closely enough there, you just might see a woozy-looking local food critic very dear to me who's wearing the stupidest smile I've ever seen.

Hot stuff on the side: Every Gahanna Grill burger is served with immodest handfuls of french fries that, even if they have a cryobag pedigree, get treated like royalty with a crackly, crispy and ungreasy frying.