Spicy Chicharrones, $9

If the Worthington Inn only conjures up adjectives like grand, venerable and expensive, then you need to check out its crafty little bar menu ASAP. Its sports-pubby snacks are made with cheffy and creative touches, and they're dressed up with attractive platings.

From that list is a dish I've lately been craving on a regular basis - the Inn's remarkable Spicy Chicharrones. Served in a martini glass, a la shrimp cocktail, are plump, tender and oh-so-meaty chunks of high-grade boneless Berkshire pork loin deep fried and doused in a zingy Buffalo wing sauce.

They're high-styled swiney wings without the boney gnawing, and to eat them is to be privy to a mad kind of genius - and to finally understand the phrase "when pigs fly."