By G.A. Benton

In many ways,Cafe Istanbul is the granddaddy of our still-flowering Turkish restaurant scene. Throughout its many years and ownership changes, this terrific Easton establishment has prudently maintained its dramatic setting.

That means there's still the oversized twin chandeliers, the eye-catching yellow and orange striped paint decorating arcade archways, and walls brightened by colorful rugs and plates.

Cafe Istanbul's often enchanting music sounds like it came straight from the souk, and its zesty and fresh food closely follows suit. (And isbest enjoyed with Cafe Istanbul's good selection of Turkish hooch.)

Why this pie?: It's like two American snack-food forms rolled into one, only tastingtantalizingly Turkish.

Eat it: Sheets of lovely, crispy-thin, oven-singed flatbread get slathered with a sort of pungent paste made of ground lamb cooked with lots of garlic, onions, tomatoes and bell peppers. When picked up and chompedlike a regulation pizza, it'spretty special. But when accessorized withthe provided add-ons ofa bitter little salad (composed of spice-dusted raw onion and parsley) plus a tiny shower of fresh lemon juice,it gets even better.

Then when folded over and eaten like a taco - well, now you're talking nine kinds of crunchy and deliciousawesomeness. This lamacun (pronounced "llama-june") is both delicate and extreme, raw andcooked,earthy andbright, and like a pizza and a Mexican-style delight all at the same time.And it's something I crave almost every night.