On a wall in the literally just-opened Knead is a map outlining every county in Ohio. Written near that carefully rendered map is "Eating Locally since 2010."

On a wall in the literally just-opened Knead is a map outlining every county in Ohio. Written near that carefully rendered map is "Eating Locally since 2010."

I like how this neatly sums up what you need to know about Knead - while it's seriously focused and local, it never loses sight of a teasing sense of humor.

With a playful and relaxed space, bold Latino/Italian/Ohioana-influenced food, cheap prices and a huge Ohio-based beer list, this of-the-moment "urban diner" owned and operated by the talented La Tavola folks looks to be the kind of restaurant that fun-loving locavores have long been waiting for.

The goods: Of course it's a long list, including chicken, lamb, pork and beef from Sweet Meadows (Zanesville); wild 'shrooms from Mushroom Harvest (Athens); cucumbers, scallions and radishes from Green Harvest (Northeast Ohio); and a cavalcade of cheeses from Blue Jacket Dairy (Bellefontaine) as well as Holmes County Amish farms.

Eat this: A tart and refreshing, more-complex-than-it-sounds Simple Greens salad; rich, earthy and corny veggie enchiladas slathered in a homemade mole sauce; and crispy lamb taquitos.