Cool eats: Kihachi

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From the Cool eats: Kihachi edition

Sea Bream sushi

Your wish for the most beautiful raw fish will be granted at Kihachi. No one in town makes sushi as artfully as Kihachi, and right now no sushi is more exhilarating than Kihachi's seasonal Sea Bream. In fact this cliche-shattering masterpiece will have you rethinking how great sushi can be. Atop blocks of highly accomplished sushi rice are transparent sheets of surgically sliced, (slightly sweet) pickled kelp and ocean-scented sea bream. Prettily peeking through - like leaves ironed between waxed paper - are tiny sancho leaves. Wheels of lime separate the ambrosial segments. Like a poem exploring its themes, citrus reemerges in a grapefruit-flavored dipping sauce and a zingy sancho peppercorn is embedded - a la "The Princess and the Pea" - in the firm mattress of rice.