Alpaca Terrine ($15) and Chilled Seafood Strudel ($12)

Alpaca Terrine ($15) and Chilled Seafood Strudel ($12)

You know how sometimes you're struggling to decide between the tantalizing heft of meat or the luxuriousness of seafood, and then suddenly realize you can just go surf and turf? That happened to me recently at the Refectory. Meat-wise, the surprising Alpaca Terrine is like the best lunchmeat you've never eaten. What could be the product of an elegant French butcher, it's a housemade-bacon-wrapped amalgam of beefy tasting alpaca, pork, duck, black olives and green peppercorns. Flourishes of brandy-soaked cherries, briny cornichons, a sagey jasmine stalk, crunchy sea salt and a hollandaise-y mustard sauce highlight the terrine's nuances. The lovely and dynamic Chilled Seafood Strudel is as busy as the terrine is spare. It's a Wellington-like buttery puff pastry wrapped about a mosaic of halibut, walleye and salmon. Quenelles of an insanely bright, tangy and caper-bolstered sauce (it would make shoelaces taste good) play the part of cheffed-up tartar sauce. Carrot threads, tomato concasse and excellent grilled and chilled artichoke hearts beautifully complete the sculptural plate.