Even if its owners opted for a vastly silly name (and you'll be informed of this by Urban Dictionary), obviously a lot of thought has gone into the first Yabo's Tacos.

Even if its owners opted for a vastly silly name (and you'll be informed of this by Urban Dictionary), obviously a lot of thought has gone into the first Yabo's Tacos.

I write "the first" because this inexpensive, fairly well performing, gringo-and-family-friendly, Mexican-ish restaurant with a convenient little bar seems to have been conceived, designed and erected for replication and franchising.

Consequently, it features mainstream, crowd-pleasing attributes like a classic rock soundtrack, sports-beaming flatscreens plus a cheery and chain-ready color scheme. Its upbeat tints - in alternating shades of canary yellow, chili-pepper red and swimming-pool aqua - evoke a sunny getaway and promises of fun, zesty food.

While those expectations were not met with my ho-hum triple dip (salsa, "queso" and guacamole) appetizer (Chips and Trio, $5), they were largely satisfied by Yabo's duo of unusual and engaging soups (each $3 per cup). The creamy, nacho-cheese-colored White Bean and Chicken Chili was stout and hearty with lots of great chili-powder-powered flavors. Good from the first nibble, this stuff only got better with every successive bite.

Ditto for the beefy and thus deceptively named Mexicali Vegetable Soup. Packed with comforting strands of pot-roasty meat, its tangy tomato broth had a neat vinegary bite and Worchestershire-sauce-like character along with veggies such as corn, green beans and peas.

Most of Yabo's good-sized yet inexpensive main courses - like entree salads, burritos, quesadillas, wraps, and rice and bean bowls (sold for about $6 each) - are composed by selecting one of eight fillings and then tricking it out appropriately.

Of the fillings I tried, my favorites were the juicy, tender, pleasingly salty and deeper flavored slow-roasted shredded beef and pork. Still, the smoke-hinting chunks of grilled chicken and grilled "beef steak" were pretty nice, and the grilled fish was OK - but I'd shy away from the iodine-y grilled shrimp.

Main course-wise, the mammoth "wet" (with a slathering of recommended zingy ranchero sauce) burrito with shredded beef (or pork) was the most successful - it came loaded with rice, black beans, corn, cheese, lettuce, pico and more. For a lighter, less carbo-bombing meal, try the Rice and Bean Bowl - it's basically a naked burrito, i.e. one not wearing a giant flour tortilla.

Though the mostly iceberg lettuce mix could've been more thoroughly de-hydrated, my meal-sized Yabo's Salad with Grilled Steak (it comes with feta, red onion, cilantro and an olive relish) with ancho chili ranch dressing was pretty good.

For a snack or cumulative a la carte meal, the juicy Baja-style tacos ($2 apiece) with soft corn tortillas, pico, feta cheese, lettuce and cilantro were a Yabo's highlight. Like everything else here, they're best enjoyed while watching sports in the bar area and sipping on a $1 "retro" beer of the week.