Pie art: Omega Artisan Bakery

By Columbus Alive
From the June 28, 2012 edition

You might know Omega Artisan Baking for its breads (you’d better, their stuff is great), but did you know this North Market stalwart also makes terrific pies? I learned this after a lunch at Skillet in which I indulged in a wedge of dessert so wonderful and unforgettable that I called up the restaurant before starting this article. I was informed that the source of Skillet’s killer pies is Omega Artisan Baking.

Omega is the brainchild of Amy Lozier, a former book-publishing warrior who taught herself kitchen skills after falling in love with European-style baked goods when visiting her sister in Switzerland. This led to a series of pastry chef gigs in restaurants that culminated in Lozier taking a deep plunge by opening Omega nearly a decade ago.

Omega’s peerless Seven Hour pie is nothing short of a revelation. Earning its name honestly, it features an insanely smooth, silky and rare kind of custard that must be made with pure, unpasteurized cream (from Snowville Creamery, of course) and cooked for seven hours. The payoff is immense: a nearly peanut buttery texture and haunting flavors of caramel, butter and unadulterated dairy.

Naturally a filling that extraordinary deserves a crust that can stand up to it. Fortunately, the Seven Hour gets an A+ base that’s snappy, brawny and flaky.

Photos by Alysia Burton