Seven Sloppy Sandwiches: The Health Nut: Burrito at Portia’s Café

  • Photo by Meghan Ralston
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From the August 22, 2013 edition

Most burritos are belly-busting torpedos loaded with about a week’s worth of calories and the kinds of ingredients that keep cardiologists on-call. Portia’s game-changing vegan version ain’t most burritos — but that doesn’t mean it’s not a glorious mess to eat.

Instead of a boring old flour tortilla, this biggie arrives in a proprietary gluten-free wrap made with teff, brown rice and coconut oil — it’s rather like the semi-spongy (in a good way) Ethiopian bread called injera. Biting through this inspired exterior, you quickly encounter the reassuring jumble of rich, hearty and zesty Tex-Mex goodies that make burritos eminently lovable.

Since this is an open-ended jammed-full sandwich, you encounter those goodies all over your hands. So thick and tangy guacamole might begin to cake your fingers as salsa splashes out. And flavorful black beans and brown rice will stream out (with fresh leaf lettuce strands) in a surprisingly creamy wave of faux dairy that alchemically tastes believable with everything else. Adding even extra heft — along with herby notes — is Portia’s sausage-y homemade breakfast patty. Eating this virtuously rarely tasted this sinful.