Seven Sloppy Sandwiches: The Hot Mess: Pambazo at Don Pedro’s

  • Photo by Meghan Ralston
From the August 22, 2013 edition

Getting introduced to this mobile vendor’s whiplash-inducingly spicy and delicious specialty (muchas gracias, Taco Trucks Columbus!) elicited a mini-epiphany. It’s an explosively flavored, flamboyant sandwich that manages to stain your fingers devil red with every bold and wonderful bite. See, the torta/sub-type bun is sinisterly dunked in chili sauce (note: Sissies can order it less spicy … but why?) before getting seductively crusted up on the griddle.

Then comes a spilling-over filling of zesty chorizo “Philly-steaked” together with chunks of potato to create a sorta satanic hash. Lettuce, about a whole freshly sliced avocado and a formidable dairy barrier of squirts-outta-the-bun sour cream plus, occasionally, (the construction seems to vary — last time, mine contained bonus chicken chunks) melted cheese and/or salty cotija cheese help mitigate the addictive sting.

It’s a portable pinata of savory treats, a hearty oral carnival, a flavor fiesta. It’s a crispy yet ridiculously juicy over-the-topper that demands extra napkins every time you pick it up.

Fortunately, this picnic table-equipped taco truck keeps a roll of paper towels on its counter — spin that spindle excessively before taking off.

Disclaimer: As with all cuisine-on-wheels, the availability of Don Pedro and this pambazo is far from guaranteed. But as with a few rarefied truck delicacies, this thing is worth the potential hassle of seeking it out!