Another shot of Patron

By G.A. Benton

WILL SHILLING PHOTO

To review the newish Mexican eatery out in New Albany called Don Patron is to take stock of what our new world hath wrought in regards to Mexican restaurants. At some point over the last decade, a template seems to have been minted and then set in stone.

It dictates that in the blink of an eye there shall be melted cheese, runny refried beans and so-so rice deployed to all diners (henceforth referred to as the "amigos"). It mandates that menus shall contain approximately as many entries as a suburban phone book, yet shall not include genuine Mexican dishes like Huachinango a la Veracruzana, tinga, mixiotes or Mole Oaxaqueno. It demands that specious claims to authenticity be constantly made.

The only way things could be worse would be if all these places were to suddenly disappear. Because let's face it, they're fun, cheap and they deliver a decent greasy flavor fix to go with your probably not-too-bad margarita. In other words, maybe there's no reason to take these restaurants seriously, but there's also no reason not to take them — at least occasionally.

Clearly Don Patron does not break this mold. But it easily holds its own and sometimes reaches somewhat higher than its many rivals.

It's certainly not boring in the looks department. Don Patron is big and bright, with caramel-colored sponge-brushed walls, framed Mexican genre scenes and, especially, wildly painted chairs, booths and tables. I've seen the type before (at Fiesta Time in Clintonville) but the explosive tropical colors in bas relief never cease to amaze me.

Maybe not amazing but still above average were the warm chips and somewhat nuanced salsa that always started things off. Also ahead of the curve was a very satisfying appetizer of Calabacitas Fritas ($6) — fried zucchini fingers. They were steaming hot, fresh squash sticks in thickish, golden brown, ungreasy jackets paired with a black-peppery sort of Mexican ranch dressing.

A serving of Ceviche ($6.50) was smallish but effective. Firm dices of refreshing white fish and carrot were "cooked" in a bath of lime juice and sprinkled with parsley. You scoop the mix up with provided tostadas.

Don Patron

9765 Johnstown Rd., New Albany

614-939-4081

From the numbing amount of entrees here, the Don Patron Special ($8 at lunch) was a pleasing, sweet, savory and rich dish. Grilled chicken strips and big pineapple chunks were enlivened with an aromatic chorizo and given the melted cheese treatment.

While not exactly an epiphany, Chile Verde ($11) was also a simple triumph. A piled-up plate of tender, slowly cooked, unctuous pork shoulder was drenched in a contrapuntal tangy tomatillo sauce.

Almost an epiphany was the Filete Mignon with Shrimps (sic; $17). You won't likely get a better piece of beef or higher-quality shrimp at any local Mexican restaurant. On a huge platter, a real filet came temptingly seared and perfectly seasoned. It was large enough to be a meal in itself, yet six good shrimp accompanied it — they were dunked in a perky pool tasting of lime, beer and butter. Instead of the usual refried beans and rice, this one came with steamed asparagus (fresh, if less than thrilling) and a crock of first-rate, firm, soupy black beans cooked with salsa and topped with cheese.

Don Patron displayed its strong local lineage — it's related to La Casita — with its a la carte taqueria-type tacos. So just as its Bethel Road progenitor does, the Don takes good, soft corn tortillas, layers them with spicy meats, heavily sprinkles them with raw onion and chopped cilantro and serves them with garnishes of sliced radishes and limes. I liked the barbacoa (tender, juicy Mexican pot roast), carnitas (hunks of pork glistening in its own delicious fat) and the pastor (more pork, but in a medium-spicy red sauce).

In the end, Don Patron occupies a position as one of our more serviceable Mexican restaurants. Until someone comes along with the nerve, verve and know-how to cook authentic, terrific Mexican food, I suppose that will have to do.

May 1, 2008