Gazpacho ($6)

Gazpacho ($6) Cold soup? Well, hells yeah! See, one diner's oxymoron is another eater's relief from cruel heat. And for me, the cold soups served at The Rossi - available as daily specials - are nothing short of wonderful. The more straightforward gazpacho is rustic yet lush, with brightly flavored chunks of tomato, cucumber and red onion aromatized by basil and enriched by good olive oil plus pulverized bread. More exotic, creative and elegant is the watermelon gazpacho. You might think it'd be thin and sweet, but it's pulpy and tangy, with deep flavors emanating from charred red peppers, mint, jalapenos, melon and a hint of garlic. A wide swath of watercress cream - it almost looks like a pretty green smile - lends a cool and sophisticated richness.