Till has to be the most versatile restaurant in town. That's why I believe the remainder of its title - "Dynamic Fare" - describes an ideology/aesthetic instead of a cuisine style. And that's why Till is willing to tackle any kind of cooking - vegan, meaty, American comfort, Mediterranean, Asian, Jewish, you-name-it - so long as Till can do it in its inimitably own beautiful and from-scratch way. I know what you're thinking now: Yeah, but what about tacos?

Till has to be the most versatile restaurant in town. That's why I believe the remainder of its title - "Dynamic Fare" - describes an ideology/aesthetic instead of a cuisine style. And that's why Till is willing to tackle any kind of cooking - vegan, meaty, American comfort, Mediterranean, Asian, Jewish, you-name-it - so long as Till can do it in its inimitably own beautiful and from-scratch way. I know what you're thinking now: Yeah, but what about tacos?

That exact thought brought me to Till's "Taqueria Thursday," an ongoing special wherein four kinds of tacos are available for $4 apiece. Of course I needed to limber up with some drinks first.

Since it was a nice evening, I took advantage of Till's revamped patio. It's a stylishly rustic - or rustically stylish, you pick - four-table setup handsomely fenced off from King Avenue. And it's a great place for a Sangrito ($10).

Till's minty, tart, refreshing and generously sized version of the sangria/mojito hybrid is made with Mount Gay rum and riesling, and garnished with organic berries and grapes. Till's Daiquiri ($9) is also seasonally appropriate, and also delicious. Starring anejo rum from Brugal (a venerable Dominican distiller), it's a citrusy-sweet rejuvenator with a single huge ice cube and a hefty body.

Elegant is a word not often associated with tacos, but Till's qualify. And not only were all varieties I tried pretty, distinct and terrific tasting, they were surprisingly filling too.

Arriving on dense handmade corn tortillas, each was slathered with a black bean puree (subbing in for "refritos") and adorned with impeccably fresh cilantro leaves and a sorta mini-salad of vine-ripened tomatoes, cucumber, carrots and jicama. What also set these non-spicy beauties apart were their primary innards.

The dark horse surprise was Till's amazing vegan taco: uncommonly "meaty" smoked Portobello mushroom pieces aroused by a tangy glaze. Also smoky were semi-brilliant batons of unusually delicious chicken that were juicy and deceptively substantial.

Till's ceviche - big chunks of lovely ocean trout exploding in a citrus bath - likewise left most others in the dust, especially all those made with cheap and flavor-challenged tilapia. Woodsy vapors again wafted in with my fourth nightly special taco: the saucy and addictive smoked tempeh with biodynamic ribeye.

These were all so good, when my tablemate later asked which was my favorite, I answered "Whatever taco happened to be in my mouth."