It looks like any old (and possibly boring) wine when it's sitting on the shelf. But it doesn't feel that way when pick it up.

It looks like any old (and possibly boring) wine when it's sitting on the shelf. But it doesn't feel that way when pick it up.

Appearances can be deceiving in the case of this 1000 mL, 2013 Broadbent gruner veltliner ($14 at Grain & Grape). It doesn't look bigger than a standard bottle, but it somehow definitely is — and it manages to pack in one-third more wine.

For this bottle, that means one-third more light fruit flavors that skew to the sweet side. It's an easy-sipping wine that takes on a mix of peach and green apple flavors — both tart and juicy, in a combo that seriously gets your mouth watering. It would be fantastic with a mix-and-match platter of cheese slices (parmesan) and crumbles (blue cheese), pear slivers and fresh strawberries or strawberry preserves.

If you're in a seasonal mood, go for apple slices, thinly sliced baguette and some honey.

This is an Austrian wine — something you can tell at first glance thanks to the red-and-white-marked cap, FYI. Gruner veltliner is Austria's specialty; very little of the wine produced in Austria is red, and of the whites, a good deal are gruner veltliner. As much as the bottle label might go on about how “elegant” it is, its flavor profile falls in line with the standard “value” gruner: somewhat sweet, with a sharply citric side (and always, like those of any price, enjoyed young).

Which is fine by me. This bottle’s bang-for-your-buck will keep you coming back.

Photo by Meghan Ralston