How does pizza sound today? Or how about barbecue? At NiDoVi, you can get both.

How does pizza sound today? Or how about barbecue? At NiDoVi, you can get both.

As its head-scratching name suggests, NiDoVi, which just celebrated its first anniversary, isn't your average restaurant. No, this quaint, family-run eatery does things a bit differently (its title conflates the names of the owners' children: Nick, Dominic and Vincent).

Positioned off the beaten path beside railroad tracks in Dublin, NiDoVi occupies a shack-like building that is unassuming to the point of ignorable. Inside, however, it's bright and cheery and hardly lacking in personality.

Equipped with seating for about a half-dozen people, NiDoVi is primarily a takeout business. But while you wait for your order, you can gaze at a busy open kitchen, a compendium of Italian proverbs ("We do not age at the dinner table"), a cloth map of Italy identifying where the country's famous wines and cheeses come from, and carpe diem slogans such as "We eat, we laugh, and we eat some more." Since NiDoVi is also a little carryout, you can pick up nice beers and wines to accompany your food.

Speaking of food, NiDoVi's large menu covers all of the contemporary pizzeria bases, but tosses in a few welcome curveballs, too. Such as offering barbecue on Thursdays throughout the warmer months, starting in April. Most important, its fare stands out from the pack because NiDoVi's is made from scratch, and tastes like it (this includes pizza sauce and dough, but also meatballs, sausage, salad dressing and sub buns).

A wide variety of pizzas is available at a wide variety of prices (small one-item pies are $7.75; most large "specialty" pies are $16). As with NiDoVi itself, the pizzas defy expectations.

They aren't classic Columbus style (i.e. crackery crusts sliced into rectangles), or modern "artisanal" style (delicate, pie-sliced and flaunting nontraditional toppings). Though less hefty and less crispy, they're closest to New York style.

They're also a little garlicky and feature distinct, fresh-tasting, medium-thick crusts. The crusts are puffy, attractively browned, slightly sweet, a bit crinkly and cut like a pie.

My favorite pizza was the "Big Pauly." If, like me, you're wondering if that name alludes to the mobster memorably portrayed by Paul Sorvino in "Goodfellas," "The Mafia Cookbook" sits near NiDoVi's kitchen.

Topped with a rich and tangy-sweet sauce plus pepperoni, bacon, sausage, capicollo and an enticingly browned cheese blend (mozzarella, provolone and Pecorino Romano), "Big Pauly" is the most heavy-duty pie here. Displaying NiDoVi's judicial distribution of toppings, though, the smoky, spicy, salty and delicious pizza isn't a greasy mess. For something more restrained, try a pie with fresh, garlicky sausage clumps or tender and pleasant sliced meatballs.

When enveloped in a warm and puffy housemade roll, those meatballs make a great sandwich ($6), too. Ditto for the pork tenderloin ($6), which stars a crisp and lightly hand-breaded schnitzel better than many I've sampled in much fancier restaurants.

Like its pizzas, NiDoVi's barbecue is honest, good and made with care. Though out of ribs on my visits, I tried and liked both the pulled pork ($9/lb.) and, especially, the brisket ($14/lb.). Both meats were comparatively lean (for barbecue), endowed with visible pink smoke rings, and lightly smoky. NiDoVi's tangy and onion-scented, homemade barbecue sauce might well be called "artisanal Arby's sauce" - that is not written with malice.

Big and meaty whole wings (3 for $4.50) and above-average salads ($5.50 for a large) with romaine lettuce, olives, fresh-cut carrots and mozzarella are offered, too. Both can be tossed in NiDoVi's creamy-yet-tangy, garlicky and black pepper-enhanced "Smokey White" dressing. Like friendly NiDoVi itself, the dressing is a little different and a little better than what you might expect.