So long, Egg McNuthin' and ghastly coffee in a sad setting. Hello, heavenly Ham Biscuit with local microgreens, runny egg and pickled onions knocked back with Thunderkiss coffee and enjoyed in the terrific cafe just opened in Clintonville by Dough Mama Pie and Pastry.

So long, Egg McNuthin' and ghastly coffee in a sad setting. Hello, heavenly Ham Biscuit with local microgreens, runny egg and pickled onions knocked back with Thunderkiss coffee and enjoyed in the terrific cafe just opened in Clintonville by Dough Mama Pie and Pastry.

When I moved to Clintonville about a dozen years ago - that primitive era before Twitter, Instagram and the resurgence of 19th century facial hair - getting a breakfast sandwich meant fast food slapped together with industrial ingredients. Obviously the local cuisine scene has blossomed since then - and so has increasingly hip, sophisticated and desirable Clintonville. This brings us to Dough Mama, an instantly popular, all-things-artisanal startup in the right place at the right time.

You don't get more zeitgeist-y than Dough Mama. The chic and spare cafe and bakery is the brick-and-mortar upgrade of Brooklyn native Perrie Wilkof, a classically trained baker whose fantastic, cooked-at-home pies have lately been available in places such as The Crest Gastropub, Skillet and Yellow Brick Pizza.

Past the week-old cafe's butter-colored facade is a counter near shelves of boutique goods for sale (coffee beans, locally made jewelry, etc.). After placing your food order there, you move to a cheery room with handmade blond wooden tables, big windows, hanging globe lamps and a large cactus highlighting a veritable tiny forest of quirky plants. When I visited, the Nick Drake-like guitar reflections of Daniel Bachman offered a big city-sensibility with rural roots - music which perfectly suits this cafe.

That Ham Biscuit ($7), starring a golden-brown and wonderfully flaky cheddar-scallion biscuit and slab of griddled pigmeat, has all the makings of a new, must-have sensation. Prefer meatless? The also-delicious Avocado Biscuit ($7) replaces the hog with tomato and its "creamy" green namesake.

Just as those superb biscuits eclipse countless others, the Trail Mix Oatmeal ($5) crushes most hot cereals. Instead of being gloppy or sloppy, it offers terrific textures and flavors assisted by toasted nuts and dried cranberries.

These breakfast dishes are available 7-11 a.m. weekdays; 9 a.m.-3 p.m. weekends. Two lunch sandwiches I'm eager to try are available after 11 a.m., and myriad baked goods - like one of the best buckeye treats ever (Buckeye Cream Pie), and a seasonal and sensational Ginger-Cranberry-Pear pie - are sold all day.

Dough Mama Cafe & Bakery

3335 N. High St., Clintonville

614-268-3662

facebook.com/doughmamapie