People who grew up with Chicago-style hot dogs have entrenched beliefs about them that border on religious or obnoxious, depending on your disposition. A 100-percent correct dog is composed like this: Steamed Vienna beef hot dog (char-grilled if you're feeling frisky) on a steamed S. Rosen's Baking Co. poppy seed bun topped with diced raw onion, neon-green pickle relish, yellow mustard, tomato slices, pickle spear, sport peppers and a dash of celery salt.

People who grew up with Chicago-style hot dogs have entrenched beliefs about them that border on religious or obnoxious, depending on your disposition. A 100-percent correct dog is composed like this: Steamed Vienna beef hot dog (char-grilled if you're feeling frisky) on a steamed S. Rosen's Baking Co. poppy seed bun topped with diced raw onion, neon-green pickle relish, yellow mustard, tomato slices, pickle spear, sport peppers and a dash of celery salt. It's "dragged through the garden" and supposedly reflects the city's diverse ethnic history. Just don't put ketchup on it, OK?

Daredevil Dogs recently celebrated its one-year anniversary by expanding the menu, including the addition of their take on the Chicago dog. Inspired, we took a Tour de Dog around Columbus on a quest for encased-meat greatness.

Best of the Wurst

North Market, 59 Spruce St., Arena District

The dog: All-beef dog, diced onion, neon pickle relish, tomato slices, pickle spear and giardiniera on a poppy-seed bun

On the side: Skip the soupy slaw and bagged chips on offer here and go across the aisle to Kitchen Little for an order of french fries, perfectly brown and salted.

The giardiniera was a nice touch, even though Chicagoans would scoff that it belongs on an Italian beef, not a hot dog. By the time we got the dog to a table upstairs in the North Market, the bottom and ends of the bun had gone disappointingly soggy.

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Daredevil Dogs (Our Winner!)

1437 N. High St., Campus

The dog: All-beef, Ohio-sourced dog, diced pickled green tomatoes, diced white onion, pickle spear, yellow mustard and celery salt on a poppy-seed challah bun ($5.50)

On the side: Tots

Daredevil Dogs proves you can make a dog that evokes all the best flavors of the original - tangy, sweet, sour, smoky - with none of the by-the-book authenticity. The sausage - smoky, juicy, perfectly sized - is superior to the others we tried around town.

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Wholly Joe's Chicago Eatery

1182 E. Powell Road, Lewis Center

The dog: Red Hot Chicago all-beef dog, yellow mustard, relish, diced onion, sliced tomato, sliced cucumber, pickle spear, sport pickles on a steamed poppy-seed bun ($3.45)

On the side: Crinkle-cut fries

Wholly Joe's plays strictly by the rules (cucumber slices are an accepted addition), yet somehow comes up short on execution. If you're near Polaris and jonesing for a dog, this will scratch the itch. But it won't impress your Chicago friends and relatives. One nice touch: Your order comes wrapped in a white paper bag, a nod to the typical corner dog stand in Chicago.

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Loops

1629 Northwest Blvd., Grandview Heights

The dog: Vienna beef dog steamed to order (or charred on request), yellow mustard, diced onion, diced tomato, green relish, pickle spear, sport peppers, celery salt on a poppy-seed bun ($2.95)

On the side: Loops Original fries, seasoned with herbs and grated cheese

Props to Loops for loving hard on Chicago, right down to inside-baseball sports jokes on the wall. The dog is authentic, alright, but we wished for tomato slices - the mostly-diced toppings wanted to tumble onto the table. The fries, however, are several steps above the standard-issue crinkle-cut variety.