After dining several times at Borgata Pizza Cafe, three catchy phrases came to mind.

After dining several times at Borgata Pizza Cafe, three catchy phrases came to mind.

What's in a name?

You can't judge a book by its cover.

Everything in moderation, including moderation.

Because Oscar Wilde said it, and because portions and flavors are often immoderately massive at Borgata, I'll start with number three and work backward. Seriously, at Borgata, one dining partner and I, seated at a table able to accommodate a whole softball team, shared a calzone approximately the size of a Car2Go vehicle.

Secondly, judging by Borgata's "cover" - a nondescript storefront in a little strip mall near Dublin-Granville Road - you'd never guess how capacious and appealing it is inside. To enter its spare and airy, sparkling-clean space is to be greeted by smiles and pizzas being tossed in a vast open kitchen with lots of counter seating offering views of the theatrical, scratch-cooking action.

Lastly, by calling itself a cafe instead of a pizzeria, Borgata has picked a name that correctly indicates there is more here than very good pizza. For instance, after ordering a bottled or canned beer presented with a tall frosted mug (the modest selection includes Stella Artois and 16-ounce Yuenglings; all are $3), I highly recommend tucking into the Spicy Sausage-Stuffed Peppers ($8.50).

The meal-sized appetizer is as addictive as it is fiery, so that beer will come in handy. Three seared Cubanelle peppers thickly sheathed in melted mozzarella cheese arrive completely filled with delicious homemade sausage fragrant with fennel seed and hot from chili flakes. The huge tubes are served on a pool of perky house marinara sauce and with toasted hunks of house-baked bread.

The winning Spinach Salad ($8.95) could also serve two to three. Fresh leaves are treated to warm bacon - it's not crisp, but there's plenty of it - plus red onion, good blue cheese and a fruity-but-sweetness-restrained raspberry vinaigrette.

That colossal Borgata Calzone ($11.95) could easily please five people as a substantial starter. Crisp, golden-brown, garlicky, herby and oozing milky molten ricotta and mozzarella cheeses, it's not just big, it's one of the best calzones around. A side of warm marinara helps cut the profound richness.

More fresh, house-made dough forms Borgata's could-be-crisper pizza crust, which arrives puffy and attractively char-spotted along its golden-brown edge. Toward the center, it's somewhat thin, but bready, pliable and able to hold up under the weight of the bacon, crumbled sausage, stacked rectangles of deli ham, pepperoni, tangy sauce and generous handfuls of blistered cheese that go onto the salty, spicy and delightful Meat Combo ($19 for a 16-inch pie).

Because it's harder to find in town than high-quality pizza, the accomplished homemade pasta might be more impressive. Comfort-food fans should target Borgata's long, toothsome spaghetti strands coated with marinara ($9.50) and enhanced with a meatball ($2) the size of a baseball. Like the excellent Cavatelli in rich pesto sauce ($9.50) supplemented with loads of tender, sliced chicken ($2.50), it's enormous and better than what you get at most local Italian restaurants.

Despite such portions, desserts waiting in a refrigerated case near the entrance will likely tempt you. This seems like a good place to cite Oscar Wilde again - he wrote that "the only way to get rid of a temptation is to yield to it" - as I recommend Borgata's Lemon-Ricotta Cheesecake ($4). It's a wonderful "two-fer" that layers lemon-drenched cake atop a light and tangy, ricotta-based, Italian-style cheesecake. Enjoy it in moderation if you want.