The Butcher & Grocer is that rare operation that practices what it preaches. What the little specialty store that opened in Grandview on July 5 preaches is the gospel of "Local," as quoted from the holy book of "Superior Quality."

The Butcher & Grocer is that rare operation that practices what it preaches. What the little specialty store that opened in Grandview on July 5 preaches is the gospel of "Local," as quoted from the holy book of "Superior Quality."

Walking inside the spare and tidy chapel that is The Butcher & Grocer, I was greeted by the scent of smoke - charcuterie is one of its big attractions - and by multiple members of the friendly, knowledgeable staff. "Great Service" is obviously a chapter in TB&G's bible, too.

One greeter was Tim Struble who, with Tony Tanner, owns the shop. A veteran of the excellent butcher blocks at Weiland's Market and Bluescreek Farm Meats & Market (formerly in the North Market), Struble was quick to point out that TB&G's meats are all sourced from family farms situated within 150 miles of Columbus.

This claim is backed up in the centrally located butcher case that takes up much of TB&G's space. Nearly running the length of the modest-sized room, it contains myriad cuts of beautiful, pasture-raised, non-GMO pork and beef - a good number are lean cuts, as this is a "whole animal" kinda place - bearing the names of their originating farms.

Also in the case: free-range eggs, whole chickens, house-made sausages and an array of ready-to-eat, high-grade cold cuts, some from The Hungarian Butcher, a.k.a. Dan Varga, former chef at Explorers Club and Double Comfort. Apart from this showpiece case, the store has an expertly curated cheese selection (Struble's experience includes high-end cheese shops) and three shelves holding local-focused goodies such as boutique-quality condiments, jams, crackers and house spice blends co-developed with North Market Spices.

Acting on Struble's recommendation for three of his latest favorites, I picked up some great aged gouda from Turkeyfoot Creek Creamery in Wauseon (near Toledo). Made with goat's milk, it's hard, nutty, perfectly salty, nuanced and resembles Parmesan.

I also bought some just-made spicy Italian sausage called The Big Vittorio (for Struble's cousin) that hadn't been segmented into links yet. Frying a patty of it later, I was instantly hooked on its herby, peppery and fennel seed-accented flavor, which finishes with a wallop of chili flakes.

Cousins Sweet Heat - an addictive, barbecue-style, small-batch "utility sauce" made in Grandview - was my third purchase. It more than lived up to its name.

I could say the same about this new shop.