The bold flavors dished up by Taste of Greece and Moroccan food truck span two continents
Momentarily transfixed by a relentlessly flashing LED sign whose display called to mind a parody of the art of Ohio native Jenny Holzer combined with the geometric patterns at Mitla (a Mexican archeological site), I suddenly saw this scroll by: “WELCOME TO TASTE OF GREECE AND MOROCCAN FOOD TRUCK.”
I squinted for a few beats to mull over that greeting. It’s not the easiest string of words to parse, but the bottom line is that Moroccan food is being featured at a mobile Greek eatery.
Well, count me in.
The greeting periodically recurs — along with “BEST GYROS IN TOWN” — above a popular red food trailer stationed in a parking lot at Indianola Avenue and Weber Road about which I’d heard good things. Those good words would ring true and then some.
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Long-story-short information dump: Taste of Greece launched years ago as a gyro specialist. When new owners took over in 2020, they added Moroccan-style dishes but kept — and only improved — the Greek offerings. If, like me, the rarity of Moroccan fare in Columbus makes that a bigger draw, be aware that it’s advisable to arrive before 4 p.m. to purchase certain in-demand items.
Chief among such dishes with a limited availability is the highly recommended Moroccan Burger ($10) — a shawarma-like sandwich of shredded, pot roast-like beef fragrant with spices such as saffron, cinnamon and turmeric and loaded into toasted puffy pita bread. Garnishes of tzatziki, lettuce, tomato, onions and cucumber, plus an inhalable side of crisp skinny fries enhanced with parmesan and parsley, complete the entree.
The Burger with Fries ($10) is likewise delicious, not a routine burger and served with those addictive fries ($2.49 a la carte). This was a seared kefta-like patty cradled in pita with many of the same garnishes plus feta.
Such items and the deceptively simple and refreshing Moroccan Salad ($3) suggest an overlap between the eatery’s Moroccan and Greek offerings. Contemporary American favorites pop up, too. My advice is to take the rather loose menu categories with a grain of salt, parmesan and parsley.
So never mind if encountering Wings (five for $5.99) on the Moroccan side of the menu seems odd. Because encountering crispy, flour-dusted fried chicken sprinkled with parmesan and parsley in your mouth will be delightful.
Kefta — here called “kufta” — is showcased again in cumin-scented, grill-crusted logs speared onto two skewers and served with a nice little Greek salad, toasted pita triangles and three fine sauces (tzatziki, barbecue and Buffalo) in another dish worthy of a good sit-down restaurant (Kufta Kabbab with salad and pita, $10). The similar Chicken Kabbab with salad and pita ($10) was at least as good.
My huge servings of parmesan-boosted fried Brussels Sprouts outscored ones I’ve had in fancy establishments. The veggies were great even when missing their menu-promised halved grapes (an uncommon combo that works) and are a steal at $4. For another wonderful deal, order the big and terrific Falafel Sandwich ($7) with zesty and craggy falafel, the usual garnishes, plus kalamata olives.
The attractively assembled Greek Salad ($7) augmented with four stuffed grape leaves was another strong vegetarian offering. This — and most everything else on the menu, including a mammoth wedge of crushed-walnut Baklava ($3) and a spot-hitting Chicken Gyro ($9) made with seared breast planks — pairs well the Almond Avocado Juice ($6), a milky and just-sweet, smoothie-like beverage.
Obviously, I had to try the Lamb Gyro ($7). Unsurprisingly, it was good — toasted pita enveloping the familiar spit-roasted meat treated to a battery of compatible garnishes and seared to intensify its earthy flavors and to create an appealing texture.
Was it the best gyro in town? Do you think I’d argue with that revved-up LED sign?
Taste of Greece and Moroccan food truck
2991 Indianola Ave., Clintonville