Following theft, temporary closure, La Poblanita continues to serve stellar fare

A much-missed neighborhood fixture has returned to its old location, and its taqueria fare — such as its highly recommended tamales — remains as good as ever

G.A. Benton
La Poblanita on Indianola Ave.

Like “Taco Tuesday,” which it could have inspired, Cinco de Mayo (the fifth of May in Spanish) is a day when many people opt to eat Mexican food. 

Some quick pertinent history: Cinco de Mayo commemorates a Mexican victory against the French army of Napoleon III at the Battle of Puebla in a war that Mexico ultimately lost. 

More fun facts: A person from that Mexican city of Puebla is often called a Poblano, or — using the Spanish language female diminutive — la Poblanita. 

If those last two words ring a dinner bell, you’ve likely connected the dots to the much beloved La Poblanita taco truck. Operated by the Soriano family — whose roots are in Puebla — La Poblanita was in the news late last year when the truck was snatched from its Clintonville parking lot by thieves in the night.  

Tragic, yes, but in a feel-good turn of events, the truck was recovered and — with the help of a wildly successful GoFundMe campaign (nearly $80,000 raised) — was fully repaired and reopened to bustling business in mid-March.

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Considering La Poblanita’s Puebla connection and its risen-from-the-ashes backstory, this little taco truck that could (again!) would be a very fitting place to get Mexican food for Cinco de Mayo. Considering that La Poblanita regularly offers quickly prepared good taqueria fare with gracious service, it’s frankly a fine place to get Mexican food any day of the week (the truck is currently closed on weekends).

Cradling flavorful and amply packed meats in puffy, toasted and good-tasting soft corn tortillas that don’t turn chilly in seconds, La Poblanita’s tacos succeed where those of many competitors fall short ($3 apiece; $13 for a mix-and-match “three-taco combo” bargain served with rice, beans and a soft drink that should be horchata). 

Three taco combo (chorizo, tinga, pastor - "Mexican" style with cilantro & onions) from La Poblanita. (Photo by Tim Johnson)

I liked all the meats I tried: pollo (juicy pulled chicken); asada (lean but tasty, sometimes tender steak); chorizo (griddle-crisped, spicy and salty); carnitas (almost confit-evoking, irresistibly fatty pork); pastor (think house carnitas seasoned like chorizo, but less salty and less spicy); and highly recommended tinga (smoky, spicy, stewed chicken enhanced by chipotles in adobo sauce). 

Tinga makes a great filling for a burrito ($11). To be honest, I think burritos can often be disappointing. Although easy to inhale (even while walking), many burritos are hampered by under-toasted, underfilled and overly thick flour tortilla wrappers that are about as much fun to eat as poster board. 

Not here. The behemoth burritos I received featured actually appetizing, heat-dotted flour tortillas packed to nearly bursting but proportionally loaded with the usual suspects: meat (and plenty of it), beans, rice, sour cream, cheese, lettuce, tomatoes, you know the drill. 

An appreciated and analogous toasting of respectable telera-style bread distinguished La Poblanita’s tortas. The sandwiches hit the spot well enough, but I surprised myself by preferring the same-priced burritos, which I think are a better value, too.

Bistec Ranchero from La Poblanita on Indianola Ave. (Photo by Tim Johnson)

The bistec ranchero was a solid value for a large meal ($15) served with Mexican rice (average), partly smashed pinto beans (above average), plus tortillas and fixings galore. The entree’s obvious star was abundant and delectable carne asada souped-up with red-chile sauce and griddled with onions and potatoes that looked like stubby fries but tasted like something you’d get in a stew. 

If you want to get La Poblanita’s tamales — and believe me, you do — you’ll need to check for daily specials or just show up on a Friday, when tamales are routinely offered here. 

Three fillings are generally available: pulled pork with a fiery red-chile sauce; chicken in a zippy tomatillo sauce; and veggie (cheese, tomato, onion and jalapeno). 

I’m partial to the spicy pork but expect whichever tamale you buy to have a supple and delicious, skillfully steamed masa casing and to be the best $3 you spend that day.  

La Poblanita

3825 Indianola Ave., Clintonville